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Torquay restaurant retains Michelin Star for 19th year
'It’s credit to the team, some of whom weren’t even born when we were first awarded the star'
Reporter:
Julian Barnes
10 Apr 2024 1:30 PM
Torbay's only Michelin-starred restaurant has retained its status for the 19th year in a row.
The Elephant, situated on Torquay Harbour, offers contemporary British cuisine created with local ingredients that are often sourced from the restaurant’s dedicated farm in Brixham.
Run by chef proprietor, Simon Hulstone and his wife Katy, the Elephant was the first restaurant in Torquay to be awarded a Michelin star in 2006 and the only one to retain it.
The famous Michelin star is awarded to restaurants offering outstanding cooking. Five universal criteria are taken into account: the quality of the ingredients, the harmony of flavours, the mastery of techniques, the personality of the chef as expressed through their cuisine and, just as importantly, consistency both across the entire menu and over time.
Starting as Head Chef almost as soon as the Elephant opened, Simon said that achieving a Michelin Star was never the aim.
“It was never in the plans,” said Simon Hulstone.
“At that point, I hadn't worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant in the UK, so it wasn’t really on my radar. We were just creating food that we enjoyed cooking.”
After working as the Head Chef of the Elephant for over a decade, Simon and Katy bought the restaurant from the original owners Peter and Fredrika Morgan in 2017.
Predominantly cooking with local ingredients could prove a challenge for many restaurants, but the Elephant’s versatile and ever-changing menu means every season is an opportunity.
Being near Brixham, one of England's largest fishing ports doesn’t hurt either.
Simon said: “We've always classed Devon as a larder for the rest of the country. We work around the seasons, with the farm as well as quality suppliers and producers, sourcing the best ingredients that we can get at that time of year.
“We enjoy making food that we enjoy eating. That's the main thing. We're not trying to be anything more than just a good family-run restaurant.”
These aspects of the Elephant certainly haven’t gone unnoticed. The Michelin Guide says of the Elephant: “Hugely appealing dishes are led by the season’s top produce and Simon champions both local ingredients – including those grown and reared on their 96-acre farm – and prime Norwegian seafood. Accompaniments are designed to enhance each main ingredient, and the tasting menu best demonstrates the breadth of his skill.”
However, Simon said that the key to maintaining a Michelin Star for so long is consistency.
“There isn’t a secret really, it’s just being consistent. Every dish we do has to be as good as the last. We have no idea when an inspector will come, so as far as we're concerned, everybody is an inspector because they're coming to dine. We don't treat anybody any different, we just do the very best that we can for every meal.”
He added: “We are absolutely delighted to have retained our Michelin star for a 19th year. It’s credit to the team, some of whom weren’t even born when we were first awarded the star, who consistently deliver great food and service.
"We must also thank our wonderful suppliers who ensure we have the best produce to work with.”
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