Encounter with medieval pedlar

During a recent visit to Hound Tor I was reminded how special this place is to many people, for differing reasons.

Some say it inspired Conan Doyle whilst he was in the area researching his famous Sherlock Holmes novel as it used to have two hound’s fangs atop its pinnacles. Sadly, only one remains now after a bunch of drunken lads went there one night with vandalism in mind and pushed one off. The legend behind the tor suggests it was formed when the fleeing hunting hounds of the Bowerman were turned to stone by the angry witches of Hayne Down. The hounds’ master became known as the Bowerman’s Nose, high up on the nearby ridge, whilst his dogs now make up Hound Tor.

Nowadays, the tor is very popular with visitors who like to make the gentle stroll from the sizable car park below, across the down, to the towering outcrops. Further incentive to tourists used to be the presence of the refreshments van known as The Hound of the Basketmeals, Sadly a victim of Covid, it has now been replaced by another van, servicing the many hungry and thirsty walkers that the area attracts.

In previous articles, I’ve highlighted other people who regard Hound Tor as their “special” place, including two young ladies who used to attend my TIP meetings at Churston Court. They would sit amongst the rocks to energise their spiritual batteries, so to speak, and when one informed the other they had never visited nearby Jay’s Grave, the friend wanted to put that right and so embarked on a little adventure that gave them a story to share with the group the following week...

For me, it will always have a special place in my heart for it was where Tom Baker visited, with the BBC, to film an episode of Dr Who, featuring the Sontarans. Tom might have a different take on it for he took a tumble, breaking his collarbone, having to be shipped off to Derriford Hospital for repairs. However, it also has a spookier side that I find particularly of interest, featuring the ghost of a Jewish pedlar crossing paths with a visiting doctor...no not Dr Who this time...

As you walk into the valley, on the other side of the outcrops, you soon come across the well preserved remains of a medieval settlement, known as Hound Tor village, one of the best examples still evident on Dartmoor. It is said that many of the inhabitants were struck down by the Black Plague when it ravaged the whole of Europe and beyond. Some not so badly infected managed to escape the village, finding their way to Buckfast Abbey where they were nursed back to health by the monks. Most vowed never to return to their homes again, fearing it might still retain the pestilence, preferring to see it abandoned, which is our good fortune, as the shells of the buildings have remained virtually intact for future generations to explore and examine right up to the present day with no sign of the Plague still lingering...

The Jewish Pedlar, in the following story, might well date back to Medieval times as he travelled on horseback, with all his wares, trading with the various settlements, and, possibly, he too was a victim of the Black Death. Whatever the cause of his demise, his ghost still makes its presence felt from time to time, especially on the day when a certain doctor visited the location.

Leaving his wife in the car in the parking area, she didn’t share her husband’s interest in ancient ruins, the doctor set off up the slope, intending to explore the remains of the village, behind the majestic outcrops, in the valley below.  As he crested the hill, beginning the descent along the path leading to the ruins, he suddenly became aware of a figure walking towards him, leading a horse laden down by heavy looking panniers. The figure was wearing strange garb, almost medieval, befitting the age of the settlement, the doctor thought, being well-versed in the subject. As they drew level, the stranger spoke, but in a language the doctor didn’t understand. Finally facing each other, the doctor began to feel a bit light-headed, and the figure shimmered, like it wasn’t really there, was he communicating with a ghost? As the pedlar continued to speak, the doctor found he too could speak the same words, but didn’t understand what he was saying. Continuing on passed him, the stranger and his horse just disappeared, there one second gone the next.

The doctor couldn’t believe what he had just witnessed. Forgetting all about his visit to the village, he returned to his wife, waiting in the car, in an almost trance-like state. She  became quite concerned, especially when he spoke to her in a foreign language. After a while, he seemed to snap out of it, finally being able to explain to his wife all about his weird encounter. Seemingly suffering no side effects, they drove home, the doctor still puzzled by the words buzzing around in his head. Fortunately, he had a friend who knew a bit about foreign languages, and when he shared the experience with them, the friend identified the words as being Hebrew. Doing a bit of research, the doctor discovered that Dartmoor was frequented by traders, during medieval times, peddling their wares with the  local communities, some of them being Jewish. So the doctor was forced to conclude, that he had just crossed paths with the spirit of one such Jewish pedlar...

For those of you who enjoy my stories and folklore, you might like to know that I’m running a series of four Ghost Walks around various Dartmoor towns and villages, namely Bovey Tracey, Chagford, Okehampton and Princetown, during the last week in May. If you want to see these tales told in their natural habitat, as it were, see my poster, or get in touch via email (davidtiptrips@gmail.com) if you would like further details. I hope to see some of you soon.